Off to Berlin for four or five days next week. We've got some plans for a few of the obligatory touristy things. Any recommendations for other must-see/must-do/must-smell experiences in and around Berlin? We'll have a modest budget but have put some moolah aside for one or two fancy treats (most likely involving haute cuisine). We're big on contemporary and modern art, natural history, food of all possible kinds, thick cloudy beer, and bloody lovely looking sights. We'd love to hear about some lovely places to eat and drink, and, as the wife has requested, where the best flea markets are. Thank you, cultured globetrotters.